Settings and mountings
How the stone stays in place
The setting is how the metal holds the stone; the design is the overall layout of the jewel. Both change how much light enters the stone, how well it is protected and how it wears every day.
Setting types
The tags are our own summary, to compare the options at a glance.
Slender metal tips grip the stone and leave it almost entirely exposed: the most light gets in. The tips can catch on fabrics and should be checked from time to time. With four prongs you see more of the stone; with six the hold is firmer and a round shape stands out more; V-prongs protect the corners of pointed shapes.
- Light: maximum
- Protection: limited
- Periodic check
A variation of the prong setting: a metal ring below the stone links the prongs and helps keep them from bending or spreading over time.
- Steadier prongs
A continuous metal rim surrounds the stone: it protects the edges best and suits people who use their hands a lot. In return it covers a little more of the stone and lets in slightly less light.
- Protection: maximum
- Light: a little less
The stone sits level with the metal: very sturdy, with nothing to catch. Less light gets in, so the stone sparkles less, and the band must be wider and thicker.
- Protection: maximum
- Light: reduced
- Does not snag
A row of stones runs between two metal walls, with no separations: protected edges and a continuous line of light, comfortable for everyday wear. Channel-set rings are harder to resize.
- Protected edges
- Everyday wear
- Resizing: difficult
The stones are separated by thin metal bars and stay open at the sides: plenty of light gets in, but they are a little more exposed to knocks. Here too, resizing is delicate work.
- Light: plenty
- More exposed to knocks
- Resizing: delicate
Many small stones set close together, held by tiny metal beads, cover the surface like a pavement of light. It is worth checking now and then that they are all secure, and resizing requires care.
- All-over sparkle
- Periodic check
- Resizing: delicate
The pressure of the metal holds the stone, which seems to float in midair. It is more exposed, though: a hard knock can shift it, and resizing can be very difficult or impossible.
- Floating effect
- More exposed to knocks
- Resizing: very difficult
Designs
A single stone: a clean, timeless line that is easy to pair. It is the most popular design for engagement rings.
A frame of small stones around the center stone makes it look larger. It needs a little more care to keep the stones secure and clean.
The center stone with two side stones, which widen the jewel and can add color. For the side stones we suggest a color within about two grades of the center stone.
Two stones side by side, matching or contrasting in shape and color: a personal design, created to tell the story of a couple.
Two metal arches lift the center stone and give it height and elegance. Because it sits higher, it catches more easily on clothes and objects.
Several stones gathered in one group: a wide, bright effect, usually at a lower cost than a single stone of the same size.