Chains and links
The design of a chain
The link gives a chain its character: how it drapes, how sturdy it is, whether it can carry a pendant and how easy it is to repair.
The tags are our own summary, to compare the links at a glance.
Square, cube-shaped links. In its thin versions it is the ideal partner for a pendant; for an experienced goldsmith it is usually simple to repair.
- With a pendant
- Repair: simple
Round or oval rings hooked into one another: one of the best-loved open-link chains, lovely on its own and a great base for charms. Repair can be delicate.
- For charms
- Repair: delicate
Identical links that interlock and lie flat and close together. It is among the strongest chains and an experienced goldsmith repairs it easily.
- Very sturdy
- Repair: simple
Tightly packed, heavy oval links: a bold chain that gets noticed. Its thickness makes it durable for everyday wear; repair time and cost depend on the size of the links.
- Sturdy
- Bold
- Repair: depends on the links
Born in Italy: one elongated oval link alternates with two or three round links, flattened to lie against the skin. Similar to the curb chain, it is usually simple to repair.
- Lies flat
- Repair: simple
Flat links that overlap like a shiny ribbon. It is thin and tends to twist or kink: handle it with care, as it is difficult to repair.
- Delicate
- Repair: difficult
Elongated links like paperclips, light and airy: perfect for layering with other chains or for hanging charms. They are usually repaired without much difficulty.
- For layering
- For charms
- Repair: usually simple
Strands of gold twisted like a rope. The tighter the twist, the more metal the chain contains; hollow versions are difficult to repair.
- More metal if tight
- Repair: difficult if hollow
Tightly fitted rings forming a smooth, flexible tube, like snakeskin. It is thin and delicate, ideal with a pendant.
- With a pendant
- Delicate